surfhenge
falling off
into the salt water
cold
seagulls over my head
the smell is sweet
my faviorte in the world
indesrcibalbe
i climbe back on
my white long board
paddle out
to where i can't touch the floor
here comes
a wave
catch it
kneel, one foot in front of anougher
stand up, shaking
wind in my hair
i make it
to shore
i head back out to the water
the only sound to hear
is my yell
celebrating
the self-victory
of the early hours
into the salt water
cold
seagulls over my head
the smell is sweet
my faviorte in the world
indesrcibalbe
i climbe back on
my white long board
paddle out
to where i can't touch the floor
here comes
a wave
catch it
kneel, one foot in front of anougher
stand up, shaking
wind in my hair
i make it
to shore
i head back out to the water
the only sound to hear
is my yell
celebrating
the self-victory
of the early hours
1 comment:
message from the auther:
surfhenge is one of my faviorte places in san diego
i have loved it since i was little
it is a place of peace
and fun
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